UNDERWEAR AND SOCKS

Underwear and socks are things we not only wear, but change every day. That being the case, we need to have a good supply of these items on hand at any given time to meet our needs. They are an essential part of our dress, yet when properly worn they are not noticeable, (except in the case of those ridiculous individuals who wear their pants on their butts). Given the low visibility of these items and their frequent use, it makes absolutely no sense to throw away money on designer brands, unless there is actually some qualitative difference. Even then they will go through the same wash cycle as everything else and will become indistinguishable. It is far more sensible to use the same money to buy more of these items, and in turn, to dispose of them more frequently as they become worn, stained, or shrunk.  Just add them to the rag pile. With underwear especially, any of the ordinary brands, such as Fruit-of-the-Loom, Jockey, or Hanes, that are sold in packages are adequate, and since they are available so inexpensively, there is far less angst in disposing of them.

Socks should be chosen to complement the outfit you are wearing, especially the pants. If the pants are black you should wear black socks, brown brown socks, and so on. A very subdued pattern is okay, but loud socks just don’t go with the classic look. The socks should be long enough to prevent any flesh from showing to avoid looking tacky. If the socks are noticeably tight around the calves, or leave significant indentations when taken off it is time to dispose of them. Cotton is the best material for socks since it “breathes,” but a cotton blends also works. Avoid exotic materials such as silk for socks because they will age badly. For that matter, any socks that can’t be tossed into the wash will just waste your time. 

Cotton is also the best material for underwear. You have a variety of underpants types to choose from, and you should go with what gives you the greatest comfort above any other considerations. While most underwear is white, subdued colors also work well in underpants as they are more forgiving of stains, unless of course, you are wearing white pants. If underpants are no longer comfortable, i.e. due to shrinkage, toss them, otherwise you will be miserable all day. 

Undershirts come in three basic types: the crew neck, V-neck, and the A-shirt. The latter is basically useless as an undershirt since your underarms aren’t covered. If you don’t frequently wear ties, the majority of your undershirts should be V-necks. These are less likely to show under a shirt with the top button(s) unattached. An exposed undershirt seriously detracts from your appearance and should be avoided. Towards that end buy the deepest V you can find. The only time to wear a crew neck with a casual outfit is if it is colored and harmonizes with your shirt. On the other hand, when you wear a shirt and tie, a crew neck works best because it doesn’t show through your shirt, especially if the shirt is white or a light color. Any other kind of undershirt is likely to show and spoil your appearance. 

The basic rules for undergarments are that they don’t show, and that they fit comfortably. In addition, they should be inexpensive and not carry a pointless “designer” premium so that they can be replaced and recycled frequently. This will enhance your appearance and comfort, while also providing you with some lint-free rags on the many occasions when they are needed around the house. 

SWEATERS

As we continue to look at casual dress we’ll now get into some details, starting with sweaters. Sizes like “M” “L” or “XL” are unreliable these days. You only really know by trying it on or getting the measurements. As a rough guide you can go by the following (which also applies to shirts and jackets): 

SIZE (inches)

XS

S

M

L

XL

2XL

US Neck size

13-13.

5  14-14.5

15-15.5

16-16.5

17-17.5

18-18.5

US Chest size

33-34

35-37

38-40

42-44

46-48

50-52

US Waist size

27-28

29-31

32-34

36-38

40-42

44-48

Given these numbers, what will work for a shirt won’t work for a sweater, since you are going to want a looser fit, so you may need to go up a bit. When in doubt go larger because nothing looks worse than a tight, poorly fitted sweater on a man. With a larger size you can bunch and fold, and it generally will be more flattering to your silhouette, provided it isn’t overly long. A good fit will have room around the belly, so that if you happen to protrude there it won’t be as noticeable, as well as around the neck, so you don’t feel constricted.  With a sweater the most important measurement you can make is armpit to armpit, which when doubled should equal your chest size. As long as you exceed that number comfortably you’re fine. 

Good sweaters usually come in wool, or wool blend, or cashmere/cashmere blend, but the 100% pure variety is generally better than a blend with some cheaper fabric. In the winter nothing keeps you warm like a good, two-ply cashmere sweater. There are, however, different grades of cashmere. Good cashmere will be covered with a kind of plush fuzz, whereas with cheaper cashmere you’re more likely to get piling. The best cashmere comes from kashmiri goats from Mongolia. The fibers are actually combed out by the herdsmen, and the harsh conditions produce a fabric, which, when loomed, provides the tightest, most effective insulation. 

The finest wool comes from New Zealand Black Forest Merino sheep. Merino originated in Spain, but is also produced in Australia, the US, and South America. The fibers are fine and soft, and there are different grades, the best of which is ultrafine. Loro Piana, which makes some of the finest fabrics anywhere, holds a contest every year to find the best wool in the world. There are many other varieties of wool, with names like Shropshire, Hampshire, Debouillet (a type predominant in the US), etc. and distinctive forms, such as tweed from Scotland. Worsted wool is more of a process that results in wrinkle-resistant fabric used mainly in suits. Wool is static resistant, as well as sometimes even water resistant, due to lanolin, like an Irish fisherman’s sweater from the Aran Islands, or a New Wool sweater from England (called Virgin Wool in the US), as in the photo below. 

These are thick and warm, which is ideal for cold weather. This is not something you want to get natural and untreated, since the lanolin smell is quite pungent. When it is processed or dyed the smell is removed. Norwegian sweaters that are still made in Norway, such as the one below, are also excellent. 

Other fabrics from South America, like Vicuna (the rarest of all), and Guanaco, make great cashmere-like fabric, as does the superfine grade of the more abundantly available alpaca, which the cardigan below is made from. 

For warmer weather cotton or cotton blend sweaters work well, although a heavy cotton sweater is also suitable for winter, such as the Coogi sweater below. 

                 

In addition to cotton, fine, lighter sweaters like the one below, are made from silk (usually raw silk),silk blend, or linen/blend.  Natural fabrics breathe well and stand up to use, however you can sometimes find good sweaters that blend natural fibers with man-made material such as acrylic threads. 

However, generally, the woolly fabrics mentioned above remain the primary material for sweaters, especially in cold weather. Unfortunately, they are also preferred by moths, which always seem to zero in on the finest cashmere first, so you need to have a good supply of cedar blocks or other moth deterrent. You can also bag this kind of sweater, but it is better to let it breathe if your storage is moth-proofed. 

NEXT: Sweater types